These bizarre hillocks were formed by erosion during the Jurassic period, some million years ago. Rainfall slowly ate away at the dissolvable limestone and flattened much of the landscape, leaving a few survivors behind, their lumpy surface today coated in a bushy layer of vegetation. Also in San Vicente are the Cueva de San Miguel and El Palenque de los Cimarrones, the latter a much smaller cave leading through the rock to a rustic encampment where runaway slaves once hid, but now set up to provide lunchtime entertainment for coach parties. The valley supports its own microclimate, and from roughly June to October it rains most afternoons, making it a good idea to get your sightseeing done in the mornings.
The Viñales valley
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The valley's flat-topped rock formations, known as mogotes, and the palm trees in the background give it an almost supernatural, mystical feel. The valley can be explored on horseback, by cycling, or by simply hiking. Drop by the Alejandro Robaina Tobacco Plantation, the most famous and prestigious in the country, where they have been growing quality tobacco since Tours are organised daily and many horseback rides include a stop here. The Mural de la Prehistoria is somewhat divisive — people either love it or hate it.